Watu was engines kujeni kias

Hii gari started misbehaving on 23rd after kids left the door lights on and drained the battery…I boosted the battery and left the engine running for about 20min to recharge lakini haikucharge.
Again I jumpstarted it and headed somewhere which kept the engine running for about 1hr so I expected it to have charged lakini haitambui…ikanibore sikuitumia tena.
I concluded battery needs replacing hio imechapa.so juzi na Jana I noticed when I lock it with the remote key haifanyi I have to go round locking every door manually upon unlocking it with remote key pia haifanyi BUT it switches on the engine.hapo nikajikuna kipara sasa imenizidi ujanja…
Hii ni shida gani sasa is it battery, alternator or the computerized mechanism . Tabia ya kusimama na jumper cables ni aibu na gari ni mpya kcj …na funny thing ata nduthi inaigurumisha
And also reverse camera haifanyi

Tafuta MTU wa wiring a confirm charging voltage kwanza

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Get a new battery

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If battery can start the car but remote haifanyi shuku battery ya remote kwanza. Replace hiyo kwanza Kwa fundi wa saa, cost yake huwa mia mbili maximum.

This is very funny. :smiley:


@snapdragon check the remote battery first, if that’s OK and it’s German check the inbuilt immobilizer, have seen cases where a jump-start causes the immobilizer to do strange things when it mistakenly suspected a tamper . They tried to make the darn thing too clever, you might have to get it reset


Had such a problem a while back and it was traced to my alarm system

Nunua hiyo nduthi, thank me later.

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Hizi ni nuksi za kusnatch simu za watu.Repent!


jump start damage is real. But it’s a bit more complicated because the likelihood of damage is related to the age of the vehicles and how discharged the “dead” battery is. We’re not talking about the kind of damage you cause by incorrectly connecting jumper cables, that type of damage can run from something as simple as a blown fuse to fried computers.

No, I’m talking about the kind of damage you can cause even if you follow proper jump starting procedures. I’ll get to how that damage occurs in a minute. But first a warning; it doesn’t matter if you’ve given or received jump starts for the last 20-years without damaging a thing. What you have done in the past is irrelevant. The electronics in late model vehicles are completely different than earlier vehicles.

[SIZE=4]Understanding voltage drop[/SIZE]
Let’s start with the concept of voltage drop on a perfectly good car with a fully charged battery. If you connect a scope lead to the positive battery terminal and ground and crank the engine, the scope trace shows that battery voltage drops to around 3-volts for about 15-ms before climbing back to 6-volts and then ramps up to 12-volts. See the chart below.


This cranking voltage drop is a really important concept to consider in a jump starting situation, especially if you try to start the dead vehicle while the donor vehicle is running. If the donor vehicle is running and the cables are attached to the dead vehicle while you crank the dead vehicle, the voltage in both batteries will drop like shown in the above graph. Since the donor vehicle is running, that vehicle’s voltage regulator will respond to the voltage drop by boosting field coil current to the maximum. When you stop cranking the dead vehicle (or it starts), the alternator in the running vehicle will sense the higher voltage and command a load dump within the next 85-ms. It’s that load dump and accompanying voltage spike from the collapsing field coil that can damage the solid state electronics in the donor vehicle.

[SIZE=4]All newer vehicles are vulnerable to damage from voltage transients[/SIZE]
Newer vehicles contain multiple computerized engine, powertrain, transmission computers as well as computerized heater controls, ABS, Stability control, Air bag, entertainment system, memory seats, mirrors, pedals, etc. Just like your home electronics, these solid state devices can be damaged by voltage spikes, RFI, and back EMF.

So let’s start with an examination of how you get voltage spikes when you jump start a vehicle.

[SIZE=4]Connecting jumper cables with donor engine off[/SIZE]
In this case you’re connecting the jumper cables between a donor car that’s NOT running and a dead car (obviously not running). We’ll also assume that you’ll be connecting the cables correctly–positive to positive, negative to good ground point.

As you move the jumper cable clamp closer to make the final connection, the voltage potential between the fully charged battery in the donor vehicle and the lower voltage in the dead battery results in a spark. This is due to breakdown voltage, where the ions in the air at the connection point become conductive. The spark is hot enough to ignite any hydrogen gas under the hood–which is why the last connection should be made far from the battery.

In addition to the possibility of igniting hydrogen, the spark itself causes a voltage spike on the dead vehicle, along with electrical noise on the electrical systems of both vehicles.

Here’s a common scenario with a discharged battery. Once the battery in the dead vehicle drops below 9.6 volts, the computers and modules often shut down. But the instant you connect the jumper cables, the dead vehicle’s electrical systems “wake up” and draw current.

As the “hot at all times” ECM/PCM, body control module, remote keyless entry and security system modules draw current they activate or deactivate relays. Although this current draw is minor in comparison to current drawn by the dead battery, the quick relay activation/activation can cause transient power surges in the dead vehicle’s electrical systems, as well as RFI interference and some degree of back EMF.

The voltage surges aren’t limited to just the dead vehicle’s electronics. Depending on the state of charge of the dead battery, a large voltage drop in the donor vehicle can cause that vehicle’s computers and relays to shut down and then re-awaken, causing the same types of voltage spikes.

How serious is the risk when neither engine is running? It’s pretty low if the dead battery is just slightly discharged but still above the 9.6-volt threshold, but it’s not zero. In that case, there’s a low voltage differential between the two vehicles. However, the chance of voltage spikes and damage increases as the voltage differential gap widens.

The possibility of jump start damage is much higher if one or both of the engines are running when the jumper cables are connected or disconnected.

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Hii ni shida na engine sasa I guess ata engine light na auto LSD imewaka just now[ATTACH=full]147412[/ATTACH]

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Odo 29515KM :eek::eek::eek::eek: kwani ni gari ya mwaka gani.


Kawasaki ama?:D:D:D


Watu wanafloat hii topic wanakaa pande gani?

labda makanika atakusaidia kuinterprete hizo codes

Peleka garage ya muindi especially those that deal with Subaru and mitsubishi where they have a diagnostic kit. They’ll sort you out.