The fuel gauge problem

I finally solved the erratic fuel gauge issue. It had nothing to do with quality of fuel used. If the car has erratic fuel reading and delayed response.
Preferably do the job when the car hasn’t been switched on for some hours to avoid loss of fuel and soiling of your car, or having your face washed with fuel, due to pressure in the fuel sender. If this isn’t possible you can just go ahead, but you will experience some fuel loss. Open the fuel tank cap to release pressure in the tank. lift your back seat, or wherever your tank fuel sender is located. wash the top to remove dirt and debris and dry with a cloth. remove the electrical plug. remove the lock securing the fuel line. remove the fuel line(expect some fuel to gush out). depending on your make use a 10mm spanner, 13mm spanner, or a screwdriver to remove the screws securing the fuel sender. the screws may have provision for both spanner and screwdriver.
(in some cars you wont see the fuel sender because it is not in the tank, but you will access the necessary fuel gauge mechanism attached to the lid. the point is accessing the gauge mechanism and not the sender ).
once removed there is that mechanism on your fuel sender resembling toilet cistern floater. For those familliar with a carburettor the mechanism resembles the float chamber testicles(tumakende). in your tank there is likely to be only one black testicle on a arm with a needle. more or less like the one below. dont drop debris in your tank.
the needle runs on a potentiometer that looks like a speedometer/fuel gauge dial. the needle is not touching the potentiometer properly because of wear. adjust the needle and dont break it because it is delicate. dont be hard on the fuel sender because it has plastic parts which are likely brittle and hardened due to age and contacting fuel. Now test the needle by putting your car power on(dont start the car), and slowly moving the testicle mechanism about the potentiometer while observing the dial on the dashboard. if you have done your work propery the gauge will be responsive. Now screw your fuel sender back in tight in a balanced manner. dont use any sealant unnecessarily. plug in fuel line and lock, and finally plug in the electrical line. start the car. it will take you pressing the accelerator and doing the starting severally because your fuel lines are dry. dont hold on the starter for too long each time or you will burn something. when the car starts, observe the fuel sender seal that you opened and the fuel line for a minute to see if there is any leak once the system pressurizes. you are done.
The common recomendation is “replace the fuel sender”, but we are in the third world we cant buy a new and likely fake fuel sender because of a simple adjustment.


Picha ya tumakende please

Great info!!!

You cant resist???

For educational purposes obviously:D:D

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You don’t say. :D:D

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