What's the issue here

Duluz

Village Elder
#1
My steering hardens and feels shaky whenever i take tight sharp turns..I notice this only when turning then sterring lights shows on dashboard then dissapeares after a while..My car doesn't use steering fluid. Kindly advice.
 
#2
Steering column is bad. It should post DTC for steering relay welding and steering torque sensor. It simply doesn't work and you are intermittently driving without steering assist. If the EPS fuse in the fuse box is good, then
1. The most probable cause is the torque sensor in the steering column.
less probable causes:
2. possible worn brushes if the eps system is brush motor type.
3. burnt motor winding
4. stuck relay in the eps control module.
5. Burnt/shorted mosfet in the eps control module
6. burnt fuse in the eps control module
7. water damaged eps control module

Intermittent problems are due to partially failed sensor. It will completely fail in due course. If you understand the sensor transducer system you can replace or repair the torque sensor broken circuit, but the usual solution for most people is to replace the column. the business end of the torque sensor is a simple center-tapped electromagnetic device. using a meter, impedance from the center tap to either end should be equal. However, you are most likely to find the transducer circuit open or open on one side in which case you should re-bridge the circuit and eps will be back and errors gone.

other less probable causes in the eps control module solution is to replace module. dont attempt to replace relay unless you get a relay of the same type. dont jump anything in the module because this is steering control. if the motor is stuck or burnt, you clean the motor or replace the column respectively.
 
Last edited:
#4
M
Steering column is bad. It should post DTC for steering relay welding and steering torque sensor. It simply doesn't work and you are intermittently driving without steering assist. If the EPS fuse in the fuse box is good, then
1. The most probable cause is the torque sensor in the steering column.
less probable causes:
2. possible worn brushes if the eps system is brush motor type.
3. burnt motor winding
4. stuck relay in the eps control module.
5. Burnt/shorted mosfet in the eps control module
6. burnt fuse in the eps control module
7. water damaged eps control module

Intermittent problems are due to partially failed sensor. It will completely fail in due course. If you understand the sensor transducer system you can replace or repair the torque sensor broken circuit, but the usual solution for most people is to replace the column. the business end of the torque sensor is a simple center-tapped electromagnetic device. using a meter, impedance from the center tap to either end should be equal. However, you are most likely to find the transducer circuit open or open on one side in which case you should re-bridge the circuit and eps will be back and errors gone.

other less probable causes in the eps control module solution is to replace module. dont attempt to replace relay unless you get a relay of the same type. dont jump anything in the module because this is steering control. if the motor is stuck or burnt, you clean the motor or replace the column respectively.
Hapo sawa.
Ebu nieleze, milango za Noah ya khupipi imekataa kukifunga milango. Makanika mulevi amejaribu kufanya ukarabati with no effect. Inakaa 10min inajifungua. He gave me two probable culprits... model ya 2004
 
#8
What is the solution?
of course replace the faulty part if you can find it. sometimes its a key problem. try to reprogram they key if you can find the faulty part. reprogramming as complicated as it sounds is a simple procedure of closing and opening driver door and inserting key in the cylinder in a particular pattern specific to your car model then the car will register the key. those old toyota systems are difficult to trouble shoot even for key makers. you can spend a lot of money on them and they cant find a solution. if all this fails replace door control computer and/or receiver. dont bother replace the key. there is nothing wrong with it if the car responds to it at all.
 
#9
of course replace the faulty part if you can find it. sometimes its a key problem. try to reprogram they key if you can find the faulty part. reprogramming as complicated as it sounds is a simple procedure of closing and opening driver door and inserting key in the cylinder in a particular pattern specific to your car model then the car will register the key. those old toyota systems are difficult to trouble shoot even for key makers. you can spend a lot of money on them and they cant find a solution. if all this fails replace door control computer and/or receiver. dont bother replace the key. there is nothing wrong with it if the car responds to it at all.
Door control ni ile moja iko kwa mlango ya dereva? Central lock buttons na za power windows?
 
#10
Door control ni ile moja iko kwa mlango ya dereva? Central lock buttons na za power windows?
No. there is a door control computer. some cars have a receiver and a door control module. In some older cars it is built as one receiver/control unit bolted onto one of the columns, usually C column for toyota. but before you go that far you can inspect the lock unlock button on the drivers window roll switch to make sure contacts are not stuck, no water damage and no broken wires. any one problem will cause the car not to lock or to lock and then unlock.
receiver in your case
reciver - Copy.jpg
 
Last edited:

Top