2 weeks ago I fueled at lexol ngong Road and upon reaching home, the next morning the vehicle was emitting smelly fumes from the exhaust ,vibrating and had no power.
I called the mechanic who came and according to him we replaced the fuel pump,and one ignition coil.
The car behaved ok until on Tuesday when when driving along southern bypass ,overtaking a trailer it lost power suddenly, stalled but luckily I pulled over…it switched off completely and after a few minutes trying to power it on it started…it did this 2 other items mpaka nikafika home. All instances stalling either when overtaking or on a hill.
What could be issue guys? Have replaced the fuel pump(although they didn’t look exactly similar to the one that came out,the mech said It should be ok) and one ignition coil only.
Well, for a start I would advise you to try googling the workshop manual of this model. If you are lucky to find it online,just download and search for that problem in the manual, am sure you shall find something helpful. That is what I always do whenever am experiencing trouble with my car, and yes I got the manual online
This is my story I have been hiding because I usually consider myself knowledgeable on cars.
That car and its brothers are crap. First stalled on southern bypass on my way to western. It stalled several times, but as you know it starts up and moves on until some other place. A passerby mechanic offered to help but I declined and continued my stop-start-stop-start journey all the way. I checked it when I was back and it initially throws a code for fuel air mixture too lean. First suspect was fuel pump. I disassembled the pump and filter assembly and changed the pump itself. It is usually a small metallic centrifugal pump. It was okay for some time then it stalled on a third journey. As you know it stalls but moves on fine like a champ several minutes later so its never like you are stranded. I found some time and changed the whole fuel pump and filter assembly for a second time, drained and inspected the tank for deposits. Tank was clean as new. It continued occasional stalling and then developed a debilitating engine misfire. I found time and tested its four coils and three were dead. I changed coils and sparks. Engine started running fine. However, still continued to occasionally stall especially when you press the accelerator and demand power. Check engine light came up for 1000th time and this time it had a code for mass airflow sensor circuit voltage too high/out of range. I found time and replaced mass airflow sensor. Check engine went away for the 1001st time, but the car continued to stall now in a much more definite and telling way. It never shuts down engine now but it suddenly slows completely and sometimes to a stop on inclines. During the stalls/loss of movement, if I keep the pedal down it maintains near red line rpm but it never roars loudly, and also moves forwards at a walking speed. This kind of stalling is becoming more apparent but only when the car is strained or driven a few hours. If you insist on accelerating it will stall engine, but if you start it up after it’s dead it will start fine. This was the dead give away.
My conclusion was that the vehicle has a faulty cvt transmission. The slipping is very obvious with the redline+ 1km per hour speed. when it slips the computer cuts fuel and imitates a faulty pump and sets a code for air/fuel mixture too lean. It cuts the fuel to keep the engine from shredding the slipping or overheating trans. Repeatedly running the engine too lean makes combustion chamber temp too high, which damages sparks and coils. MAF/IAT Sensor is also damaged if it keeps getting too hot because it measures air by cooling action of the passing air. Nothing is wrong with pump.
Of course mechanics cannot figure anything out because the problem lasts a few minutes and they are not familiar with codes troubleshooting. Their usual advise is change fuel pump.
I don’t use the vehicle anymore because the stalls happen when overtaking or when on a dangerous hilly stretch. It’s okay for run about duties. I have previously read on this forum that used cvt replacements usually have issues or are about to have them so I am not willing to have my spirit killed another time. I am also hesitant to sell such a problem to another person. When I got the car it had 29k-km and the problem started or was apparent after a year. CVTF is clean pink.
So much for the legendary reliability.
Post your solution if you ever get one.
Delete that mechanic’s number.
Did you get any check engine or transmission lights? codes?
Ignore the story written apo juu the guy probably bought a car with a damaged transmission from the previous owner.
Solution: If and only if the problem started after fueling from the said petrol station, probably the fuel is the problem, go have the fuel system flushed.
On a different note, is it an EFI engine? If so check the wire harness connector between the spark plug leads and the distributor coil. That might be the main culprit, I once had a similar experience and tried all that fuel crap. Finally a kawaya friend of mine checked and found the connector pins were loose and was not making the right contact. Replaced with a new one and voila, the problem died a natural death.
The refuelling part might just be a coincidence. Photo below for reference.
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Smelly fumes shows incomplete combustion, vibration suggest s there are some combustion cylinders that are misfiring. Your problem has everything to do firing, first check spark plugs and the wiring towards them. The problem might also be due to faulty timing of engine when to take fuel, fire and release burnt gases.
First check whether the car has any fault codes when it stalls and address them appropriately. You can buy the bluetooth diagnostic plug for 3k or thereabouts.
Second get the right fuel pump and fuel filter for the car.
Third have ever changed the cvt fluid for your car? If not just do it whether its the issue or not. Its both a preventive and curative measure (assuming your cvt box is not far too gone)
The solution to your problem lies somewhere between the three lines above.
I also experienced the same problem juzi and I have decided to park the car till I find a good mech. Was heading home alafu jam ikashikana. When traffic started moving again I tried to accelerate kwa bump ikazima. I restarted the car and it started right away. The car has been having rough idle prior to this. Kindly share solutions mkipata
Yeah initially power would just drop rpm to zero, refuse to respond to pedal input and would shut down in slow traffic. Start it afterwards and it would start fine and move. It initially looks like a fuel problem. I even flushed and bought new injectors. Bure. Mwishowe utagundua ni transmission.
1.check your transmission.(premio has lagging speed because of the transmission issues ).remember to use Toyota CVT fluid when done servicing the transmission unit
2.check your fuel pump and filter and flush fuel line.
3.check the fuel injectors and spark plugs .
4.check your alternator .
Main thing is the transmission unit,the other 3 tasks is for the health of the car.